Going Bush In Croatia

We have gone bush. We got a bit sick of the unfriendly knock on the door telling us not to park basically anywhere even during the day, so we ventured into the remoter area of the Istrian Peninsula, found this little piece of paradise right on the coast, and parked up for 3 days.


Here we were, down this goat track of a road, inbetween some pine trees – just us and a distant view of a beach bar at the other end of the bay. It’s really lovely, the fishing boats are setting their nets for the night in the bay and we have a beautiful sunset.


We are a bit short of water, so for the first time ever we leave the dishes, play a few rounds of cards and head to bed. We have been in bed a couple of hours when we hear a car pull up behind us, turn the motor off and Doug says ” This is no good – they have turned their lights off as well”. So I freak out, throw all the dishes onto the bed, scramble for my dressing gown and demand Doug drive off. He’s like, ” But our shoes are outside”. Refusing to leave our shoes he gets out of the motorhome only to discover a couple of old guys floundering. Crisis over. We back up, remove the dishes from the bed and head off back to sleep.

Our spot is perfect, the water is soooooooo clear. During the day we are visited by the odd local come to fish or sunbath on the rocks – so not completely cut off from civilization – and in the heat of the day we wander down to the beach bar for an afternoon beer. Nothing to crazy.

Our second night brings neighbours in the form of a backpacker van and 3 young german travellers so it’s an easy night’s sleep for us.


We did nothing but laze about, swim, sunbathe and walk around the rocks and it was blissful but after 3 days it was time to catch up with civilization again. We needed water and groceries.

Our 4th night was spent 5 kms up the road just outside Fazana, a small town known for it’s sardine parties. In the morning we rode our bikes into the centre and had coffee and pastries for breakfast. What a treat. Honestly the coastline is something out of a storybook.


We went to Pula for groceries and also to see the Roman Amphitheater which is the 6th largest in the world but the most preserved. Dating back to 31BC and completed in 67AD it’s old. Used to showcase Gladiator and animal fighting, it was closed in the 5th century and has lain to ruin ever since.


Having got quite used to the “wilderness” of Croatia, Pula seemed overwhelmingly large and we made the decision to bypass the city centre in favour of an obscure but safe seaside location.

More goat tracks ensued with the driver getting a bit antsy but eventually we found ourselves in this gorgeous bay next to a private resort in the middle of nowhere and here we have stayed for another 2 days just swimming and beaching until this afternoon.


This afternoon we headed for Labin, an old, old town just above the coast with a mining history. We just love these old towns, some parts in ruin, others preserved and others just holding together. We arrived late so missed all the boutique shops that sell local products but we really just prefer to wander anyway.


We left just before dark, not ideal for finding a place to park up for the night but with the coastal town of Rabac just down the hill we thought we should be fine. My Park4night App pointed to the Marina so here we were driving through the main promenade of shops and restaurants on this narrow little road that runs down to the marina in our motorhome. I couldn’t even look up at all the people staring at us but as it turns out, no one else is crazy enough to drive here and we are now parked with a waterfront view.


So far even though Croatia is a little unfriendly towards us motorhomers, it’s forced us into the smaller towns and the more remote coastal areas and they have turned out to be treasures so it’s all been a blessing in disguise.

We have been thinking Morroco lately after Spain – would love to hear from anyone who has done this in a motorhome. Any advice is hugely appreciated.






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